Pilgrims in the Spanish Meseta : Simancas to Castromonte

Pilgrims in the Spanish Meseta 

Camino Madrid 

After a delicious breakfast of warm croissants, freshly squeezed orange juice, and café con leche we headed out into a cool (2°C), windy, overcast morning.  We crossed the highway using an underpass decorated with painted sea creatures, and were welcomed on the other side by another bronze pilgrim statue - the first of many we'd pass today.  

Almost right away we began climbing out of town and into the countryside.  Yesterday's rain had really made the fresh greens and spring yellows of the fields pop, and many of the fruit trees scattered along the roadsides had pink and white flowers beginning to show.  Unfortunately, yesterday's rain had also turned the dirt roads to mud, and our boots soon began to feel like cumbersome weights at the ends of our legs. 

Cigunuela Spain

Between Simancas and Cigunuela the open rolling countryside was beautiful.  Tall sand dunes covered with pines dotted the landscape, and the grasses and hedgerows were filled with birds.  A particular highlight for us was seeing a fox bounding up a hill and out of sight - his coat a mix of dark grey and rich red fur with a flash of white somewhere near his tail. 

Just before we reached Cigunuela we came to a lovely rest area with a bench, a small stone hut, and a group of picnic tables under a stand of shady trees.  We were only a few kilometers into our hike so we didn't stop for a break, but we appreciated the amenities.  

We continued to climb into the town and found a charming little village with a large church and a lot of Camino spirit.  The outside of the albergue was decorated with shells and a beautiful sign, and there were colourful tiled signs for the Camino de Santiago throughout town.  Further, the bar where we stopped to warm up and enjoy a second café con leche had a small statue of Santiago, and the very kind and friendly owner offered us a stamp without being asked.  We enjoyed a few minutes of warmth in a lovely-looking café, watching a uniquely entertaining talent show involving Spanish singers and dancers called Got Talent Espana. 

After winding our way out of town down the narrow curving streets we made the final climb up onto the meseta, where we encountered the full force of the wind.  Dark clouds raced across the sky in bands, and the wind was so strong it felt like it was blowing us backwards.  The flat landscape, where we could see for miles, was very reminiscent of our walk along the Camino Frances. 

We fought against the cold driving wind for the next 7 km, walking among flat fields of bright green grain, hay, and newly planted crops, rich brown squares of unplanted soil, and bright yellow patches of canola.  Suddenly we came to a small river valley and spotted the red roofs of Wamba sheltered down below us near the river.  We turned off the snaking dirt road onto a grassy track that led through a stand of trees and then followed a paved road to the edge of town. 

Wamba

Wamba (pronounced Bamba in Spanish) is apparently the only town in Spain whose name begins with the letter 'W'.  It is named after the Visigoth King Wamba, who some suggest was elected as the successor to King Recceswinth in 672.  At the entrance to town was a large white limestone statue of the king, which to our uninitiated eyes looked a little like it was sticking its tongue out at us. 

We made our way towards the center of town along streets lined with limestone buildings.  We must have looked a little cold and windblown because a very friendly man who was just getting out of his car stopped and kindly asked if we were looking for the bar.  He pointed us down a small side alley, and when we pushed aside the curtains we found a warm room absolutely filled with people out celebrating Castille y Leon Day.  We settled into a table at the back of the establishment and enjoyed an absolutely delicious tortilla con patata and another warm café con leche.  As we left, the staff and customers all cheerfully wished us a 'Buen Camino!' with friendly smiles.

We continued towards the large cobblestone plaza at the center of town and the Church of Santa Maria (or Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion).  This unusual and beautiful church dates from 928. In the 12th century, it was turned into a monastery and used as a command center for the Hospitallers of Saint John.  We were very fortunate to arrive just as it was opening for a tour, and the very nice guide asked if we wanted a stamp and gave us a very quick private tour before taking the group around. 

 

 

The inside was an interesting mix of Mozarabic horseshoe-shaped arches in the apses and round-headed Romanesque arches and capitals along the nave.  We enjoyed seeing the remains of 10th-century pre-Romanesque wall paintings in a niche along the south wall and behind the altar. Throughout the Chapel were 14th-century paintings.  A highlight for us was finding a statue of San Roque Peregrino in a niche along the south wall.  Perhaps the most disconcerting part was being shown the charnel house full of over 3000 skulls and bones from victims of pestilence and war. 

As we climbed back up out of the river valley, we felt very fortunate to have been met with such a warm welcome in Wamba, and to have had the chance to visit the very unusual church.  When we arrived up on the Meseta we were again accosted by the wind, now mixed with a light rain.  We had a gentle but steady climb for about 5 km, at which point we caught our first glimpse of the next town, Peñaflor de Hornija on the horizon.  From a distance, it looked like it was settled in a forest of wind turbines. 

 

 

We watched the town slowly approach for about an hour, looking for all the world like it was straight ahead of us, level with the fields around it.  On the final approach, we realized that there was not one but two river valleys between us and the town!  The river had long since dried up and the small valleys were being farmed. It was a relief to get some shelter from the wind in the first dip, but the climb up into town was steep!  Apparently, if you don't want to visit Peñaflor de Hornija you can take the dirt track leading off around the hill and connect to the Camino on the other side of town, but for us, it was worth the visit. 

Pilgrims in the Meseta

The views out over the lush-looking meseta were stunning from the top of the hilltop town.  This larger town was apparently originally a sheep farming community, but now it is a nice mix of old limestone buildings and more modern homes.  We made our way down the winding streets, past the stone ruins of the Romanesque San Salvador Church, and up to the Gothic Church of Santa Maria, which sadly was closed. 

Tired and hot after the steep climb up to the town we decided to make one last stop at a bar before making the final 10 km push to Castromonte. A light rain was falling and the streets of the town seemed deserted, but when we opened the door to the bar we found another warm oasis full of happy people.  The very kind bartender brought us several glasses of orange Aquarius and some delicious tapas.  As we sat there, windblown and covered in mud up to our knees, more and more very elegantly dressed people filed in.  The place was full of life, and it felt like a noisy, exuberant celebration. 

 

Reluctantly we made our way back out into the wind and cold and continued on towards  Castromonte.  Our guidebook had warned that the signs going out of Peñaflor de Hornija were confusing and hard to follow, but we didn't find this to be the case.  We climbed down a steep set of stone steps, past a small farm, followed the arrows across a highway, and then along a dirt road that again climbed back up onto the meseta. 

 

Not too long after regaining the wide open flat Meseta, we came to a crossroads that offered us a choice to turn left towards Santa Espina, where we could visit the 12th century Monasterio de la Santa Espina, which was founded by Alfonso VII's sister, or to turn left towards Castromonte.  Given the inclement weather, we headed straight for our evening's destination. 

We soon found ourselves walking along a dirt track that was bordered on both sides by a single line of planted trees.  Without leaves, they provided little relief from the fierce wind, but in summer they will undoubtedly provide welcome relief from the heat of the sun that must bake the fields on either side.  They did support a high diversity and abundance of different birds, but the wind was too strong and the light too low to photograph many of them. 

Castromonte

Shortly before we reached the town we passed through an old olive grove, marvelling at how much protection even a few small trees could provide.  At this point, a light rain began to fall once again, and we quickened our steps.  The Albergue is located near the edge of town, and when we called the number on the door a very kind man came to let us in almost immediately. We found ourselves in an old school house, which now houses ten bunks, two washrooms, and a well-equipped kitchen with a washing machine.  It was very cold inside the building, and there wasn't too much hot water, but we were able to turn on the heat, and we took full advantage of the washing machine. 

 

After cleaning up and doing chores we walked into town to see if the grocery store or bar were open.  We had read some sketchy reviews about the bar, but when we stepped inside for a drink the bartender was very nice to us.  He didn't serve food, and the grocery store was closed, so we returned to the Albergue and cooked a dinner of pasta that we had brought from Simancas.  

Although we are back on the meseta, which was described as flat, empty, and difficult to get through mentally when we walked the Camino Frances, our day was anything but flat or boring. 

See you on the Trail!
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Distance: 30 km
Accommodation: Albergue in Castromonte