Rain Storms, Provincial Mud, and Snow Storms : Vileguillo to Alcazarén

After a very quiet and peaceful night in the albergue we woke up to heavy cloud cover and persistent rain.  We delayed as long as possible, but eventually headed out into the rain and wind, which made the 3°C temperature feel closer to zero.  Little did we know at that point just how lucky we were! 

As we headed out across the fields we were filled with optimism by a band of watery blue and pale yellow sky ahead of us on the horizon.  However, we ended up chasing the sunshine all day, walking in a persistent and at times heavy rain right up until we reached Alcazarén, our destination for the night. 

For the first 4 km we followed a dirt track through fields of fresh bright green, brilliant yellow canola, and unplanted sandy soil.  The wind blew the rain sideways, thoroughly soaking us, so we kept up a brisk pace and took few photos.  We were glad when we reached the comparative shelter of the pine trees.  

Just before we reached the trees we passed a Camino marker that indicated we were crossing out of the autonomous community of Segovia and into the community of Valladolid.  Apparently this marks the third of four provinces we will pass through on the Camino Madrid. 

Today's walk was only 18 km, and about half of it was along white sandy tracks that snaked through pine forest. The rain that has fallen over the past few days has turned the tender green grasses on the forest floor to a bright, fresh, emerald green, and the clumps of lichen and mistletoe that hang from the pines were also vibrant in the wet cold morning. 

Eventually we emerged from the pines to cross a busy highway.  On the far side of the road we spotted a pair of yellow arrows on the pavement indicating we should walk right, down the edge of the paved road.  The map and our app indicated we should go down the dirt track straight in front of us, which seemed like a much safer option.  A memorial wreath on the edge of the roadway confirmed our sense that walking the narrow, shoulder-less highway was a dangerous proposition.  We continued straight ahead, and eventually spotted another yellow arrow on a small brick structure in the field.  We had chosen wisely! 

We climbed up and over a very exposed hill covered in onion crops and grasses.  It was windy and cold up there, and the track had turned to thick, slippery mud under out feet.  However, we were glad to be off the road and in the rolling hills.  As we walked the track we spotted fresh deer hoof prints in the mud, indicating we weren't alone in the peaceful agricultural landscape. 

Eventually we descended off the exposed ridge, and passed an abandoned looking farm complex, the terra cotta roofs of the outbuilding collapsing, and trees growing up at random inside the walls.  The trail took us between two huge stacked squares of hay bales, which reminded us of the Canadian prairies.  

We passed another abandoned farmstead, walked through another section of pine forest, and then found ourselves walking the edge of a very busy highway. Thankfully there was a small footpath through the grass on the verge, and as we crossed the Eresma River once again, we had a small pedestrian walkway on the side of the highway to make the crossing safely.  We had hoped that there was a place to get a warm drink on this stretch of road, but it turned out that the establishment Google maps suggested was there didn't exist. 

During the second half of our walk today we found ourselves following the app a lot, as there was an absence of yellow arrows or markers at junctions in the trail.  Essentially we stayed on the 'main' track through the fields, and would have guessed correctly most of the time.  We did pass the occasional yellow arrow confirming our choices, but a few more indicators at decision points and forks in the trail would not have gone amiss. 

When we reached Alcazarén we followed the yellow arrows through town, and then diverted down to the Bar Real, where our guidebook suggested we could pick up the keys to the pilgrim albergue.  We ordered a couple café con leches to warm up, and then the very friendly bar tender stamped our passports and gave us the keys to the albergue. When we signed the register we saw that there is a pilgrim from Holland one day ahead of us, and another who stayed in this albergue 5 days ago. 

The albergue turned out to be a brand new building with eight bunks, one bathroom, a tiny kitchen with a sink, a bar fridge, and a microwave, lockers for our stuff, and a small enclosed courtyard to hang our laundry or sit in when it is warm.  It was extremely clean, and we didn't hesitate to take a shower and do our laundry. 

After doing chores we set off to explore the small town.  The name Alcazarén is from the Arabic al-qasrayn, meaning 'the two castles', although we didn't see any evidence of them in our wanderings.  We did pass the remains of the church of San Pedro, which are now used as a cultural center.  The roof of this warm brick Mudéjar Romanesque style building was gone, but the walls remained.  It dates from the mid 13th century, and the apse had three rows of blind arches in brick, all of which were slightly misaligned.  It was a beautiful building.  

We also walked around the outside of the Church of Santiago.  It sits on the Plaza Mayor, and it also retains its Mudejar Romanesque apse from the 13th or 14th century.  It had a tall square tower topped by a belfry, and decorated with several balls and finishes on the spire, as well as three empty stork nests.  Apparently the inside is quite interesting, but sadly it was closed. 

At the edge of town we also passed the Shrine of Cristo del Humilladero.  This Baroque stone building from the mid-eighteenth century was surrounded by six stone crosses that formed part of an old via crucis.  

Perhaps most perplexing of all was a monument in a small park to the Discovery of North America.  There was a list of names on the bottom of the plaque, making us wonder if some of Christopher Columbus' crew might have come from this town, but the plaque remains a bit of a mystery to us. 

After our explorations we headed back to the Bar Real for a vino tinto and a snack of olives and to write the blog and wait for the grocery store to reopen.  As we sat there another pilgrim from France entered the bar! It turned out he has been camping along the way, and hasn't been able to find either stamps or a pilgrim credential since leaving Madrid, because everything has been closed.  As a result, he hasn't been able to stay in any of the albergues, even yesterday when it was cold and raining.  By chance we have an extra credential with us, and we were happy to pass it on to him, wishing him a 'Buen Camino!'  Perhaps we will meet again along the way. 

We purchased some bread, cheese, jam, and chocolate for dinner and made our way back to the albergue.  Our laundry had almost completely dried in the wind and afternoon sun, and although it is a bit chilly inside because we can't figure out how to get the heater to work, we now know how lucky we are!  When we were in the bar, the news was reporting that many parts of Spain got 8 cm of snow today, which is highly unusual for April!  Madrid, Segovia, and many parts of Asturias got hit, meaning that we are in a small bubble of 'warmth', with snow ahead and behind us on the trail.  We give our heartfelt thanks and praise to Saint Roch for our incredibly great good fortune! 

 

Snow storm images are Press pictures

After dinner we wandered out behind the albergue to watch a brilliant sunset over the hills.  Behind the albergue is a small park with a picnic table on top of a small hill, under which are located a cluster of bodegas!  There are chimneys sticking up all over the hill, as well as white stucco shelters over doors leading down into the caves below.  

 

 

As we watched the glorious sunset we were joined by a local lady who came to take photos with her phone.  She was very friendly and spoke enthusiastically to us in Spanish,  ending the conversation by saying 'You can take photos with the camera, but the best pictures are those in your mind!'  A wonderful piece of wisdom to end the day with.

Distance: 18 km
Accommodations: Albergue de Peregrinos, Alcazarén