Roman Roads Through the Mountains : Las Dehesas to Segovia

There really is no way to adequately describe the beauty and perfection of today's hike from the Guaderrama Mountains down into the UNESCO World Heritage city of Segovia. The weather was perfect, the scenery was stunning, and the trails were amazing. 

We were woken by the first tentative notes of a bird singing in the tall pines outside our open window.  As it grew brighter those first notes were joined by a full chorus of birds welcoming the day, their songs familiar yet different than those at home. 

When we headed out into the deliciously cool and fresh morning the drumming of a woodpecker echoed through the pine forest around us.  We made our way down the pavement, back to the rocky Via Romana that would lead us up to the pass at Fuenfría, and the highest point on any of the Caminos in Spain.  The sky above us was clear and bright, but its rays had not yet crested the surrounding peaks. 

A single hiker passed us as we set off into the National Park, and then we were alone.  The only sounds were the singing of the birds and the rushing of a small stream below us on the steep slope.  As we crossed a tall, curving Roman bridge,  the gentle snap of a twig behind us revealed a small dark brown horse moving among the tree trunks in the mossy banks like a shadow in the still, dim light.  

As we climbed steadily and steeply up the rocky path through the trees the sun began to turn the mountain peaks around us to gold and the soft sky to a brilliant blue.  We paused frequently, not just to catch our breath on the long, steep climb but also to appreciate the beauty that surrounded us on every side in the quiet morning.  

Although there are several trails meandering through the park, and at a few points we weren't 100% sure of which direction to take, overall the trail was easy to follow and well marked.  There were a few yellow arrows painted on rocks along the way, but mostly we followed green or white circular blazes, which clearly marked the trail to the pass.  There was also quite a bit of informational signage along the way, complete with maps. 

As we approached the top we came to a switchback that seemed to be hopping with birds of all kinds.  We paused to watch and photograph them, marvelling at the ability of one of them to seemingly pick fresh pine-cones and fly a short distance with them in their beaks! 

We reached the pass just before 10 am, having taken our time on the walk up.  There were a few other hikers and cyclists up there, also marvelling at the snow covered peaks around us, and taking a moment to enjoy the scenery.  We checked out the signage, which included a plaque honouring José Antonio Cimadevila Covel, who was the founder of the Friends of the Camino Madrid Association, and was responsable for revitalizing this route along the Roman road.  Thank you Carlos! 

When we began to make our way down from the pass we discovered there were two routes down.  We followed the first yellow arrow we came to, which took us along a wide, level, grassy track that was very pleasant to walk on.  When we looked down the slope, we could see a second gravel path winding along below us, which also seemed to have periodic yellow arrows on it.  Both paths arrived at the same place, so either one is a viable option. 

As we wound our way down the mountain the sun filtered through the tall pines, dappling the forest floor with dancing light.  To one side the forested slope rose up high above us, to the other we had stunning views of the surrounding peaks.  On one of these snow covered peaks we could see ski runs and chair lifts, but they seemed to be closed for the season. 

The winding forest path took us past several small streams tumbling actively down the mountainside.  Small stone walls had been built to contain and direct the flow, and a line of stepping stones had been laid across the trail to allow hikers to pass without getting wet.  Apparently these were places where shepherds could bring their sheep to drink. 

 

We paused for a break at one of the picturesque waterfalls, enjoying the ham and cheese sandwiches and apples the kind owners of the Casa Cirilio had packed for us last night.  As we sat there, enjoying the sunshine and sounds of water, a tiny rusty brown wren hopped up out of the brambles at the stream's edge, and made its way through the underbrush. 

A highlight of the descent was coming across the stone ruins of the Casa Eraso. 

Apparently it is one of several holiday homes located in the pine forests of Valsain that were used by the Kings of Segovia.  We could still make ou tthe individual rooms among the sun soaked stone walls that werecbeginning to disappear below the grassy slopes and trees, and there was still a magnificent gate with intricate metalwork present. 

As we continued down the mountainside, passing the Queen's fountain along the way, we began to see more hikers and cyclists, most of them headed up the slope.  Eventually we came to a logged area, and then through the trees we got our first glimpse of the red roofs of Segovia and the seemingly endless fields beyond stretching out below us.  What an amazing view! 

When we neared the bottom of the mountain the trees gave way to open fields.  From a distance we spotted a kettle of vultures circling in the clear blue sky, and we realized they were soaring above an enclosure with many bleached white bones, and the carcasses of several cows scattered throughout the field.  We can only guess this was part of a research project.  Simultaneously gross and cool! 

As we continued down the slope we heard some loud calls coming from across the grassy valley.  It took us a minute before Sean realized they were frogs!  There was a tiny pond protected by a wooden fence down below us, and when we diverted over to it, sure enough, it was filled with large, green frogs! 

 

We made our way back to the Camino, which was a narrow dirt footpath that threaded through the grassy fields.  We descended on this path for quite a long time, watching as the town of Segovia grew slowly closer.  This section also took us a long time to walk, because we were constantly distracted by the amazing views of the mountains behind us, and the beautiful cityscape below us. 

Eventually the trail levelled off and we found ourselves following the dirt track past a military zone, across a road, through farmers' fields, under the highway, and through more fields. A farmer was moving a flock of sheep from one pasture to another while the sheepdog rolled on its back in the grass, looking decidedly like it was shirking its duties.  

A group of three horses and a foal came up to the fence to see if we had any treats to offer them.  The sun was very bright and hot, but the fields were full of birds once again.  It seemed like the day never stopped providing new and interesting distractions. 

Finally we arrived at the outskirts of Segovia, and followed the signs into town.  Since this is Easter weekend almost everything was booked solid, at special Easter prices, so we ended up at a hotel in the newer part of town, about 10 minutes from the famous aqueduct. 

We were hot, extremely sun burned, and hungry so we decided to leave our explorations of this ancient city until tomorrow, and settled for taking showers and heading to the grocery store across the street to purchase some salads, baguettes, cheese, and avocados for dinner.  

It is now midnight, and we are still working hard on editing photos and writing the blog, as the cathedral bells ring out, calling everyone out to midnight mass.  It has been a long day, but one filled with many blessings here on  the Camino. 

Distance: 30.1 km
Accommodations: Los Arcos Hotel